Talking History, Family, the Future with the Women of Bacigalupi Vineyards
Cindy Rynning, Freelance Writer
Wine, Food, Travel
Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 3, Advanced
Grape Experiences
Talking History, Family, the Future with the Women of Bacigalupi Vineyards
The words “Bacigalupi Vineyards” may be familiar, especially if you’ve seen them on the label of a wine bottle. Plenty of wines I love consist of grapes sourced from these vineyards located in Sonoma County. What I didn’t realize, however, is that the Bacigalupi family, farming since 1956, has produced wine under their own label for only ten years (the tasting room opened in June 2011), has a storied history of cultivating grapes for wine brands receiving international accolades, and is owned and managed, for the most part, by women.
Recently, I accepted an invitation on behalf of Bacigalupi Vineyards, to participate in a virtual gathering to explore the story of these strong women, discover what they’ve learned through the years and understand how they’re continuing the family legacy.
From the beginning of the conversation it was clear that Pam Bacigalupi, daughters Nicole Bacigalupi Row and Katey Bacigalupi Dericco, and winemaker Ashley Herzberg honor the legacies of Helen and Charles Bacigalupi who purchased 121 acres on Westside Road, near Healdsburg, in 1956.
The Bacigalupi Family
“Grandpa Charles” maintained and cared for 16 acres of existing vineyards upon his acquisition of the Sonoma property. Soon thereafter, Paul Heck of Korbel Winery suggested that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes should be planted due to the anticipated demand for high quality wine grapes. In 1964, Charles planted six acres of each variety and soon obtained Pinot Noir bud wood from Karl Wente who shared that the “stock had come from France via the family’s old vineyard in Livermore.” Now, the property consists of 125 acres of premium grape vineyards that have been planted and managed for the past 30 years by General Manager John Bacigalupi, son of Helen and Charles, and family members.
Charles Bacigalupi , who passed in 2013, was a Healdsburg dentist who “knew how to tell jokes, but always laughed while he was telling them,” stated one of his granddaughters. He’s remembered for many things, but also as a kind and gentle man who cherished Helen, his wife of fifty years, and who honored the rustic, natural property that is Bacigalupi Vineyards.
“Grandma Helen,” now 95 years old and still involved in the wine business as well as her gardening endeavors, has empowered the Bacigalupi women and others with more than a few inspiring words of wisdom. She has stated “Don’t let people tell you “no!” and “It’s ok to do your own thing and walk your own path.” Pam Bacigalupi, married to John, understands those words. She grew up in the wine business – her father and others owned Korbel. Later, Pam chose a challenging nursing career and is now responsible for the winery’s grape growing contracts – she’s the main contact for all wineries who purchase from Bacigalupi. Pam also coordinates the picking schedule and other crucial and demanding operations.
Helen has other pearls of wisdom. “Always listen to what Mother Nature is telling you,” she says. Ashley Herzberg agrees. As winemaker, Ashley wants each wine to be a “true representation of what Mother Nature gives in the vineyard.” To that end, she uses minimal intervention and indigenous yeast, does not fine, filter or rack the wines, and feels that “working in a small winery allows for dynamic decisions.” Dry farming is employed as much as possible, there is no till so that carbon emissions are reduced, rainwater is collected and drip irrigation is evident.
Twin sisters Katey and Nicole Bacigalupi were born and raised on the ranch purchased by their grandparents. Katey Bacigalupi Row, cherished her childhood in the vineyards and after high school, studied in Florence, Italy before graduating with an agricultural business degree from Cal Poly State University and obtaining hands on experience at wineries in California and Australia. Katey stated that it’s important to “be willing to challenge yourself, take the next steps to excel, make better wine and be part of a winery that’s sustainable for future generations.”
Nicole Bacigalupi Dericco is inspired to continue the family’s heritage and agrees with her sister’s statement. “We’re competitive and want to always do better.” She graduated from San Diego State with a business degree and an emphasis in marketing before obtaining real life experience building and managing accounts in California retail outlets, restaurants and at Silver Oak Winery. Currently, both Katey and Nicole manage the marketing and sales aspects of Bacigalupi Vineyards brands.
Helen Bacigalupi resides at the Goddard Ranch, the family’s original property, where rich mineral-driven soils, a broad diurnal range and a unique microclimate help produce wines with vibrant acidity and lush fruit notes. In fact, wine from this parcel placed the Bacigalupi name firmly on the radar. At the famous 1976 Paris Tasting, the 1973 Napa Valley Chardonnay from Château Montelena, made with 40% of Bacigalupi fruit, was victorious over many renown French wines. The rest is American – and Bacigalupi – wine history.
A Bright Future at Bacigalupi Vineyards
A long time coming, the newly released Bacigalupi 2018 Chardonnay Renouveau is of 100% Wente Clone grapes cultivated in the Paris Tasting Block of Goddard Ranch. The family is excited to share its story and continue their dream of having their own wine label. With roots in the industry covering four generations, these inspiring family members and leaders hope to continue the “legacy of premium grape growing and wine making for many years to come.”
I have no doubt those at Bacigalupi Vineyards will do just that.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
My follow-up article about five wines sent as samples (including 2018 Chardonnay Renouveau) from Bacigalupi Vineyard sites can be viewed here.
