An Interview with our Forman Edilberto Martinez
Interview with Our Foreman, Edilberto Martinez
Great wine starts in the vineyard, and every vineyard has a unique sense of place, a “terroir”. Who then ensures that this terroir is captured in the fruit? At Bacigalupi that person is our vineyard foreman, Edilberto Martinez.
Edilberto and his brother Roberto have worked with John Bacigalupi for over 27 years. With 125 acres under vine and four different varietals – all cared for by hand – it goes without saying that Edilberto has a very important job.
Throughout the growing season, Edilberto will touch each vine at least five times. This progresses through pruning, suckering, thinning, leafing and finally, harvest.
Edilberto comes from a small town outside of Oaxaca, Mexico. His passion for farming and agriculture began at a young age. His family had a farm where they raised corn and peanuts. After spending many years on the farm, the family moved to a suburb of Mexico City. There, Edilberto and Roberto worked alongside their father working in construction.
After coming to the U.S., Edilberto worked for several other vineyards, including Valdez Family and E. Torres. He joined the Bacigalupi family full time in 1996.
Q&A with Edilberto
What is your favorite season in the vineyard?
“It may surprise you, but winter is my favorite time of the year. During winter the vines are dormant. This is when we do our pruning. Pruning sets the tone for the rest of the season. Our goal is to start each vine off on the right path by not overloading it. Plus the vines are not growing or producing, so it gives me time to catch up on other activities around the ranch. If we don’t get to pruning a block, it will be there tomorrow and not much will happen by then.”
What is one of your greatest challenges as a foreman?
“There are times of the year when the workload intensifies making efficiency important. We don’t use a farm labor contractor for any of our vineyard work. We are a small operation, so keeping and maintaining a good, well trained crew can be challenging.
For example, there might be a week or two when we are gearing up for something and the workload becomes uneven. So, the crew I have brought in may move to a bigger vineyard operation that offers more consistent work. Needless to say, this can be very frustrating.
Or, we could be thinning the Pinot down at the Frost Ranch right before harvest. A winemaker may suddenly ask that we drop fruit on their Chardonnay block at Goddard. I must interrupt what I am doing, move the crew, and reorganize equipment to meet the need. It can be hard; we are moving all over the property at certain times of the year.”
What is your philosophy in training new members of the vineyard team?
“Training a new crew is very important. The actions that we take as a team in the vineyard have long term effects. Among which are the health of the vine, and the quality of the fruit it produces. For example – I have a specific way I like to see a vine pruned in the winter. I have a particular way of looking at each vine to determine how to best balance it for the coming season. Once I have shown a new crew, say, which canes to keep or cut, I expect them to learn and remember.
One of the benefits of being small is my ability to keep close track of new crew members. I must quickly assess if they are learning and adapting. I give them one year to absorb my method, and by the second year I expect to see it practiced in the vineyard. We have a routine, where each employee prunes certain rows. I compare rows that I or my brother have pruned ourselves, to those pruned by the crew, for consistency. Everyone must be on the same page!”
What is your least favorite season?
“I don’t actually have a least favorite, but summer may be the most worrisome time of the year. We are very busy pulling leaves to provide adequate sun exposure on the new growth as it comes in. Winemakers are visiting the property and seeing the vineyards. Sometimes for the first time since the new growing season.
One day we’ll be pulling leaves in a block of Pinot Noir on the Frost Ranch. The next day a winemaker may want some laterals thinned on a block of Chardonnay. During summer (June, July, and August) the vine does not wait for us. We have to do every job at the right time. If a day goes by and we fall behind, things can spiral out of control.”
What is your favorite varietal to work with?
“I prefer Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, though Zinfandel is much more labor intensive throughout the year. We thin about 50% of the crop once we get to harvest. Those two varietals are the easiest when it comes to picking, since the big bunches come off more quickly.
I admit I’m an absolute perfectionist when it comes to caring for these vines. Roberto and I choose our own rows to prune, sucker, leaf, and thin. We follow each vine through the growing season, from stage to stage.”
Edilberto can look at a vine and assess exactly how to balance it for the coming season. His day is full of moments when he must weigh the risks and costs of his decisions. For instance, he may need to cut a large spur to balance the vine. This risks leaving an open wound that could allow disease. Edilberto and his crew make the critical evaluations every day that can make or break a vintage.
The pedigree and quality of the wines from Bacigalupi are well earned. They are a direct result of the unwavering commitment, hard work, and dedication. Thanks to Edilberto, Roberto and their entire vineyard team.
